Leaving Friends Behind
Leaving Kwamalasamutu
wasn't easy. The place had made such a strong impression on all of us,
and in the journey ahead we are once again at the mercy of the rivers.
The last few days have been an island of calm in the centre of our journey
through Suriname. When working with a new culture you never know what
to expect. We had been told that the Trio are a shy people and can sometimes
be hard to work with. There is a protocol, a set of rules that we had
to observe to work in Kwamala. Our first hurdle was to get the Granman
on our side. In this we were greatly helped by Frits van Troon and also
the video letter that we brought from Captain and Basha John. More importantly,
I think that our own presentation of our work convinced the reluctant
Granman to work with us. He told us that he had decided not to work
with any more film crews, but made an exception for us when we showed
him what we wanted to do on the web. I only hope that we have given
a clear enough outline of the needs of the people here. They need their
own land, recognised by the government. They need help with the school
- exercise books, paper, pens, and planks to make new buildings (see
end of entry). They need Frits to keep on working here. The Trio world
is changing ...fast. They need guidance to help them to adapt to the
outside world, while keeping a strong sense of identity and pride in
their culture.
This is a place that is changing and these changes bring tensions. The
school is a focus of these tensions. How could it be different? The
'modern' world is built on doubt, scepticism, questioning, and these
are the qualities taught in the school... the scientific method. The
'tribal' world is a place of unquestionable certainties. The Granman
is the chief, just as surely as the sun will rise in the morning. So
the elders are weary of the school. It teaches the young things that
the elders will never know and undermines their authority. It makes
the young restless and gives them a sense of their own identity and
free will, and makes them question the rule of the elders. The elders
want development but also they want to stay in control. It is a difficult
time ahead for the Trio. They need time and assistance to adjust to
the changing world, while keeping in touch with their traditions and
their sense of identity.
Our visit here has had a strong effect on the village. Our work, which
we showed to the village over a vat of Kasiri last night, has perhaps
helped them to see themselves in a new light. Hopefully it has helped
to bolster their sense of identity. We were repeatedly told that the
Granman never dresses up in his feathers for outsiders, but he did it
for us without us even asking. Paul the Maroon teacher also made a point
of saying that no crew has ever come to the village and had such a good
effect; "this is the first time that it has really worked for everyone
in the village ...this is the best chance we've had". It was a strange
and wonderful experience putting together the last few days’ diary
entries with a group of curious villagers standing behind me looking
on in wonder and the words and pictures that we have been sending the
world about their lives. It is a humbling feeling, but we all feel we
have definitely done something right without even realising how. Last
night at the party we were able to pass on a message to Ai-Ai, a Kwamala
villager. If you have visited our discussion boards, you may have seen,
that we have been getting wonderful messages from Eithne Carlin, an
Irish Linguist who has worked in Kwamala. She wrote a message in the
Trio's own language (I'm getting there... slowly!) to Ai-Ai, her 'Trio
father'. It was mind-blowing to be able to pass this on in front of
the entire village gathered in the moonlit square. (see video).
Robert Overeem, our crazy pilot, flew in this morning to pick us up.
He flew us to Pelelu Tepu, a smaller Trio/Akurio village on the Tapanahoni
River. On the way we flew over the Devil's Egg, Rosevelt piek and the
sacred mountain of Kassikassima. It was a spectacular trip that ended
with us meeting up with Dyon Smaal, our new guide, who is to take us
down the Tapanahony to Dritabiki. Before leaving Kwamala we filmed a
message to the Captains here. The first thing we did on arrival was
show the captains the footage, and examples of our work in Kwamala.
We look forward to spending tomorrow learning about life in Tepu.
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Kwamalasamutu
Kasi Kasima
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