The third day, wrapped in its fine mist, Wonotobo Falls, like an almighty out of tune radio, wakes us again. Yet despite the discomforts and hard work involved in passing this place, the whole crew is rising to the challenge. In the face of adversity though, the last couple of days has emphasised to us the frailty of our project.

Lying battered and broken close to the waters edge (a submerged track that the tractor cannot pass) the job of repairing our only means of transport began in earnest. With a cardboard box (!) and zinc plating being tacked to its wounds we can only hope that the remaining rapids are far less taxing. Aweiti, head-boatman and master boat-builder was in his element. Calling on a lifetime of skills he directed the process with a relaxed certainty that we'd be back on the water by tomorrow. It seems ridiculous now that we even tried to drag our boat by hand. As a consequence we have all developed a deep appreciation of our new-found friend....the tractor ... and in particular its driver, Suresh, who seems willing to take on anything.

Aside from the physical obstacles we're experiencing, new problems of a far more unpredictable nature have begun to plague us. The technical wizardry that makes this site possible has been posing all sorts of mysterious problems. Mirroring the anxieties of watching our boat twist and crack on its path back to water, Max has spent countless stressful hours peering at the computer screen in search of a successful 'upload'. Just as we are not jungle-trained commandos (far from it!) neither are we computer programmers.

The end of the day brought with it a twist of good fate. A captain from Kwamalasamutu, the destination of our journey, arrived in the camp. He has been sent here by the Granman (paramount chief) to found a new village, a sort of stepping-stone for the Trio tribe, on the way down to the coast. He's looking for a lift for himself and his outboard back to his village. This is double good luck. Firstly he had heard of us down-river and has radioed ahead to Kwamalasamutu informing the Granman there of our planned arrival. Secondly, we have had apprehensions about our reception at Kwamala' and what better way could there be to arrive than in doing one of their captains, on a mission for his Granman, a favour. It is extraordinary to think this could not have happened had we not got so stuck here.... Every cloud....

The Damage Done

Marcell and Michael on the Job

Techonolgical Troubled Waters